Continuing On…

Captain’s Log

Mar 16 – We are now on a mooring at Marina Taina…………….progress !!! no more room to anchor the whole area is now taken up with moorings………the progress here is quite outstanding after 2 years of absence. The wind last night was a real pain………30knts from the south, but moved around to the se as we approached, I guess one day of headwinds in 3500 miles is OK……..We have come to papeete to get washing machine parts, plus gas bottle refill, plus stocking up for your trip. plus i need some boat supplies. It was amazing to go to a ‘real supermarket’ again………..wot a selection………but as you will recall at a huge price……….its unbelievable wot things cost here…………so be prepared for our shopping bill.

Mar 22 – Yap sounds fiery in Tonga……..We had tsunami warning here…….police came on jet skis and told all the yachts……..we were at supermarket……amazingly only one boat went to sea !!!!!!!!so what’s a warning worth ???

Mar 24 – We will leave Papeete 2mrw at 9am for Moorea and then on to Huahine………Great to leave here, due to the fact we are on the leeward side of the island, there is no wind at all……..so hot hot……it will be nice to be at anchorage in the trades……

Mar 25 - We are anchored in Moorea………5am start 2mrow for Huahine……….We are going to have our arrival party/dinner at the restaurant overlooking the boat 2mrow night……..We have saved the party for our arrival in the Leeward Islands….the completion of this part of the journey, 3800nm from La Paz !!!……now looking forward to what’s next…. our trip !!!


Landfall at Nuku Hiva

last-dayRaven made landfall around midnight (French Polynesia time) last night!  I’m sure the crew is already anticipating a well-deserved big celebration and some nice shore time in one of the most beautiful places on earth!  This Google Earth image shows Raven’s approximately 3200 mile track (in yellow) from La Paz, Mexico, to the Marquesas (marked in green).  The next green marker some 900 miles further on is Bora Bora where Mike and I plan to meet up with the boat mid-April, and the three red place markers are Penrhyn and Suwarrow in the Cook Islands, and Vava’u, Kingdom of Tonga, where we plan to cruise in April-May. That massive expanse of blue water looks much better in person!

 

By the way, the little volcano icon top left is Mauna Kea on the Big Island of Hawaii.

 

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En route to French Polynesia

feb-24-halfwayRaven set sail last Monday morning from La Paz on her way to the Marquesas in French Polynesia. Here in Tucson Mike and I have been receiving daily email reports from Rod giving us some pertinent details and updated position reports. Our international crew aboard consists of Captain Rod (a native Kiwi), Brit expat and part-time crew member Nick, and Rod’s Filipino wife Geraldine.

Today they passed the halfway mark, sailing into the Intercontinental Convergence Zone (ITCZ) – an exceptionally rainy area near the equator, from about 5° north and 5° south, where the northeast trade winds and southeast trade winds converge in a low pressure zone also known to sailors as the Doldrums .  Here Raven passed through rain and squalls in what sounds like an exciting bit of sailing.
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On To Mainland Mexico

PHOTO GALLERIES
2008 Mexico – San Diego to Barra

CBParker_D3_20080122_PacMex-187When my alarm woke me this morning, it was to the sight of a blazing sunrise on our port side, while to starboard a full moon still hung in the morning sky. And accompanying Raven through the sea a pod of porpoises leaping and playing in their graceful arcs, their wet bodies reflecting the red rays of the sunrise. Better than a cup of coffee for a nice way start to the day!
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Leaving Baja

PHOTO GALLERIES
2008 Mexico – San Diego to Barra

CBParker_D3_20080119_Cabo-024Saturday morning we pulled into Cabo San Lucas right at dawn after a high speed run down the last bit of Baja’s Pacific coast. We had been dawdling along in very light winds, only 1-2 knots most of the afternoon, but late in the day came to an abrupt demarcation in the water where the flat glassy sea turned to a rough dark blue with white caps. Sure enough, as soon as we crossed the line, the wind speed jumped into the high 20s and Raven clocked along all night under sail (three reefs in the main and just a hint of a jib) making 9′s and 10′s, and occasionally 11 knots.

We only stopped in Cabo to refuel, and must have arrived as a fishing tournament was getting underway – an entire fleet of fishing boats all went racing out of the harbor simultaneously as we were pulling in. The entire harbor there is a madhouse of activity, even so early in the morning. We had no intention of staying, not only because of the hectic atmosphere but because the overnight fees are the highest in the world – I have been told (but find it hard to believe) $995/night for a boat slip!

So we continued on our way along the cape, past Palmilla, and pulled into a new marina/resort complex still under construction in San Jose del Cabo, a few miles to the east. A much more inviting environment, even though incomplete. More affordable as well! Once safe in our berth with paperwork out of the way, we spent the rest of the morning napping, doing laundry and housekeeping, and other assorted odd jobs. Mike and I explored on foot nearby, and we had a really lovely dinner at a charming restaurant in town named La Panga per recommendation of our Lonely Planet guidebook. We highly recommend it as well, if you get down this way. A romantic outdoor courtyard – a bit chilly but the staff produced ponchos for each of us (we turned down the sombreros). The town of San Jose del Cabo was extremely inviting, with beautiful old buildings, charming inns, inviting shops, and a huge central square and fountain. Lots of tequila-tasting boutiques! We didn’t really get to explore it all that thoroughly, but there was lots to see and enjoy.

Sunday we rented a car and drove some 2 1/2 hours north to La Paz – a beautiful drive through some spectacular mountainous scenery. Our mission was to locate a suitable berth for Raven to spend hurricane season (June 1 – November 1) – our insurance policy stipulates that we are not to be ‘south of La Paz’ in that time frame. Mike and I had been to La Paz last October for a dive trip, so we knew our way around reasonably well, and after visiting each of the three available marinas, settled on the one we thought offered the best protection – and fortunately it appears they will have space for us!

Mission accomplished, we drove back to the cape but via a different route, cutting across the peninsula to the town of Todos Santos on the Pacific side. There we enjoyed a frappucino that would put Starbucks to shame, and then followed the coastal highway home. Right offshore for miles we could see the spouts of dozens of humpback whales – there must have been hundreds of them all together! We have left the gray whales behind in the lagoons of Baja, but now we are coming into the territory where the humpbacks comes to calve and mate. We have seen them repeatedly in the water – yesterday one was playing around laying on its side with both a fluke and half a tail waving in the air.

Monday morning we pulled out of the harbor bright and early to make an overnight voyage to a small island named Isla Isabel, en route to Puerto Vallarta. Along the way we had several humpback sightings, also dolphin encounters, a turtle, and near Cabo we saw small manta rays or similar species leaping high up out of the water.


Headed (further) South

PHOTO GALLERIES
2008 Mexico – San Diego to Barra

CBParker_D3_20080116_BajaMex-430-1We had an intense visit in Bahia de Magdalena – three days of sightseeing with much more left unexplored. Just not enough time to see everything if we want to enjoy the tropics further south. As reported, our first day in Mag Bay included a dinghy ride to the south end of the bay and a walk along the coast through the cactus forest, and the morning of day two we relocated to the more northern end of the bay along a stretch of sand dunes. There were six other yachts already there, anchored all in a line just off the beach. A long curving stretch of sand, several miles long, separates Mag Bay from the Pacific Ocean on the north end. On the bay side a beautiful sand beach, an estuary lined with mangroves, and tidal flats with tiny ripples of surf about 3 inches high. Then a spine of sand dunes about half a mile wide, and on the Pacific side another long sandy beach with breakers rolling in from the sea. Spring wildflowers starting to bloom, very idyllic. In the afternoon we put in several hours of climbing through the sand dunes and walking along the breakers on the Pacific side. Thanks to our encounter with the local fisherman we enjoyed boiled lobster salad for lunch, and lobster again for dinner, baked this time – yum!

Late in the day an official from town came alongside in his panga to check our permisos and boat documentation. All was in order, so after a brief pleasant visit he departed but offered to come back the following morning to give us (and several of the other yachties on the other boats) a panga taxi ride to town. Really we suspect the official paperwork just gave him an excuse to visit the yachts and drum up some paying passengers for secondary income! Regardless it saves us a long wet dinghy ride, so Thursday morning Mike and I joined the other cruisers for a morning in the big city, Puerto San Carlos, the largest town on the bay with a population of some 4,500. This Puerto San Carlos is not to be confused with the Puerto San Carlos near Guaymas – we’ve noticed that a lot of place names in Mexico enjoy repeated use.

Rod stayed behind to repair the water pump which we had jinxed by commenting on its reliability! It failed within hours of the remark, but we had a spare on board so no big problem. Mike commented this morning on the reliability of Raven’s Yanmar and Rod and I just about threw him overboard! Two of the other yachts anchored here need engine repairs and are waiting to have parts shipped down from the states to La Paz, to be retrieved there. There is an informal cruisers’ net where assorted individuals driving this way bring down boat parts from the states for yachts awaiting them.

We enjoyed a high-speed boat ride to the beach near town, waded ashore, and then the group split up to pursue separate errands in Puerto San Carlos. Mike and I mostly spent our time walking the streets and sightseeing, but we did pick up a few supplies in the supermarket, and enjoyed a quick lunch at a nice little seafood cafe – shrimp tacos for me. Then back to the panga for another high-speed ride back to the yacht anchorage and Raven – entertained by the sight of another panga that passed by us carrying a full-grown palm tree, roots and all, longer than the boat – apparently on its way to a landscaping project in one of the smaller villages.

More beach-walking in the afternoon – several miles worth. We are really getting our exercise! Then early to bed with a planned dawn departure for the overnight sail to Cabo San Lucas.

Now it is Friday noon; we have been sailing since six or so, thoroughly enjoying ourselves. We set a troll line for fishing and caught a fat yellowtail mackerel (kingfish). I reeled in the fish, then let the line back out again to clear the kinks and then stow it. As I was winding it back onto the reel, another yellowtail hit the lure, so we wound up landing two. They have been fileted, zip-locked, and frozen – and we have about six meals apiece for the three of us saved up – plus lunch today was fried fresh fish with wasabi sauce – absolutely delicious (unfortunately Lean Cuisine for dinner tonight!).

We also caught up with another gray whale and got close enough for some pretty good photo ops – again I am totally blown away by what I can accomplish with my new Nikon D3 camera.

We will arrive in Cabo San Lucas early tomorrow morning, refuel and take on water, then head to a new marina being built in nearby Cabo San Jose. We’ll spend a night or two there – we’re thinking of renting a car and driving to La Paz to check out the availability of marina space there for parking Raven during hurricane season next summer. And then we’ll set sail (or motor) towards mainland Mexico by way of Isla Isabela, an island bird sanctuary some 42 nautical miles offshore of Puerto Vallarta.


Near San Ignacio Lagoon

PHOTO GALLERIES
2008 Mexico – San Diego to Barra

Two hundred miles closer to our destination – we should be pulling into Magdalena Bay early tomorrow morning. Weather is warming up (still not tropical!) and I deleted several layers of night watch apparel – skipped the hat, scarf, gloves, 2nd coat, and 2nd pair of pants. Kept one jacket, wooly socks, and the blanket! Water temperature has risen from 14 to 17 degrees celsius (57 to 62 fahrenheit) – still not ready to go for a swim.

Nice clear night with light from a quarter moon and brilliant stars – no chirping birds but this morning we found a few squid on the deck. Rod tells me he saw the birds first night out on his watch, six small ones at the top of the mast flying in circles around the masthead navigation lights. Mainsail up but still motoring – we added the reacher this morning and tried sail only, but too slow so Rod just powered up the Yanmar again.

Zero cellphone service here, not surprising. We are well offshore, and it’s a pretty unpopulated stretch of coastline anyhow.


Off Scammons Lagoon

PHOTO GALLERIES
2008 Mexico – San Diego to Barra

CBParker_D3_20080123_PacMex-003It’s mid-morning after our first night at sea – all going well, with only a light wind behind us so we are motoring but have a current helping us out. After three days (and three hundred miles) of fog bank, this morning it is starting to lift. The sun is out and we can finally see blue sky.

We refueled yesterday in Ensenada and then pulled out of the harbor about 1:30 p.m. Now we’re a couple hundred miles (nearly) south of Ensenada and about 30 miles offshore from Scammons Lagoon. Captain Scammon was the whaler who discovered the gray whales wintering in the lagoon here and slaughtered just about all of them, going home a rich man with his ships’ holds full of whale oil, while other whaling ships were chasing single whales at sea when and where they could find them.

I am well-prepared for the chilly nights. Hopefully in a few more days those will be well behind us! On my night watches last night (8-10 pm, and 2-4 am) I was outfitted in wool New Zealand socks inside my foul weather boots, two pairs of pants (sweatpants over blue jeans), a battery-heated carbon fiber jacket (Xmas present that I stole from Mike) and a big poofy down jacket over that (Xmas present from Michelle a few years ago), a wooly red scarf wrapped a couple of times around my neck (another Xmas present, this time from Armando), a knit stocking cap (souvenir from the summit of Mauna Kea in Hawaii) pulled down over my ears, and a pair of gloves (another Xmas present stolen from Mike). And on top of all that, a blanket! Very stylish! And thank goodness for Christmas presents!

As a result I was toasty warm and enjoyed the night sail – black moonless night, foggy with no stars, just me and the instruments – my favorite being the trusty radar giving advance warning of freighters and cruise ships running up and down the coast parallel with us, but much bigger and faster! There was a lot of phosphorescence in the water last night – Raven’s wake was lit up as if by an underwater headlight, full of greenish-white sparkles. Also a new experience for me (but not to Rod) – we were accompanied for hours on end by the sound of chirping birds. Not sure what that was all about, and too dark to actually see them, but Rod assures me it really was birds and not squeaking in Raven’s rigging.

Yesterday we saw a huge pod of porpoises, easily a hundred or more, on a tear – really ripping along churning up the water and flying through the air in great leaps. Don’t know if they were rushing off to lunch, or if a great white was on their tails, but they were really on the move. We saw another gray whale as well, this one with birds perching on its back whenever it surfaced.

That’s the excitement from here – another couple of nights at sea and we should arrive early morning at Mag Bay. Ferdi – the diving may be great at Thetis Bank, but the water temp is a very chilly 14 degrees celsius (57 degrees fahrenheit) – we’ll save it for our return north later in the spring!


On Our Way to Mexico

PHOTO GALLERIES
2008 Mexico – San Diego to Barra

CBParker_D3_20080111_SanDiego-001We’re on our way – after an unsuccessful (long story) attempt to repair our inverter in San Diego, we gave up and left without it – hopefully it will catch up with us in Puerto Vallarta!

We pulled out of San Diego Harbor at 4 a.m. Friday morning in fog, following the channel marker lights and listening to the sound of the foghorns. No wind, but a moderate swell, we motored all the way, some 70 miles, to Ensenada, arriving about noon. An uneventful passage but with some entertainment, including 4 dolphins who raced over to ride Raven’s bow wave for a while.
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