2008 Mexico 3 – La Paz to Loreto
We’re back in civilization. Our anchorage two nights ago at Candelero Chico was idyllic and all our own, until the next morning when swells started coming into the bay and rocking the boat – nothing worse than a rolly anchorage, so we left and headed towards Isla Danzante just across from the entrance to Puerto Escondido. I enjoyed a night swim around Raven in sparkling phosphorescence, one of my favorite things to do on a warm night, with the water warm and black and myriads of little sparkles swirling around my arms and legs as I move.
Yesterday other than change anchorages, we did absolutely nothing exciting or physical. I spent the day reading a book (John Steinbeck’s Log From the Sea of Cortez – very appropriate reading as their expedition covered in part our very itinerary, from La Paz to Espiritu Santo to Isla San Jose to Agua Verde to Puerto Escondido and Loreto where we are now. They continued on to Guaymas before heading home to Monterey, but we will save that exploration for this coming October/November). Mike has been wearing headphones and playing back M.I.T. university lectures downloaded from iTunes.
Reading more about whales in the whale ID book, I’ve revised my opinion about sighting the blue whales and suspect that we actually saw fin whales instead, only the second largest animal on earth!
This morning, feeling guilty about being lazy yesterday, I kayaked for an hour plus and snorkeled for another hour or so. Then we moved into Puerto Escondido which has a full-fledged marina as part of future plans to make this area a world-class destination. We’ve presented our papers, paid our money, and rented a car – then headed into Loreto for lunch, and a repeat is planned tonight for dinner. Our choice of restaurant is named 1697, after the year that the Mission of Loreto (La Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto) was established by Father Kino – the first and therefore oldest mission of both lower and upper Californias (Baja and our own California). Padre Kino landed here in 1667, bringing with him the statue of Nuetra Senora de Loreto (the original is still here in the church), and first attempted to establish the mission somewhat north of here. Legend has it however, that at night the Spaniards tied the statue to the back of a donkey, and woke the following morning to discover both donkey and figure missing. They followed the donkey’s tracks and brought him back to camp. The next night the same thing happened, and they found the donkey in exactly the same place. This was taken as a sign that this was the place for the virgin to remain – and so the Mission was founded where it exists now.
We’ll probably make a day trip into the mountains in our rental car tomorrow, find something to do on Sunday as well, and on Monday morning we’ll sail to a nearby island named Isla Carmen, reputed to have one of the best beaches in the world – also good diving, kayaking, etc.