PHOTO GALLERIES
2009 South Pacific
First thing Saturday morning we were hailed by returning village fisherman in their boats, coming in with their catch of tuna and offering us a fat yellowfin as a gift. Since we so far have failed to catch one of our own, this was greeted with great enthusiasm by the tuna fans on Raven! The Cook Islanders may not be quite so enthusiastic about tuna as we are as their diet consists almost solely of fish, rice and coconut. With the supply ship only showing up every 6 months or so the only island store sells out of all the imported stuff in just a few days.
And each time the supply ship departs, some 50-100 Penrhyn inhabitants are on board, abandoning the island way of life and heading towards the big city of Rarotonga about 800 miles away, and from there most likely on to New Zealand or even Australia – for work, college, medical treatment, etc., so that the population here is dwindling rapidly and the majority of houses in the two towns sit vacant.
Saturday was ANZAC Day, dedicated to the memory of Australian and New Zealand armed forces lost in World War I and wars thereafter. The Cook Islands are a protectorate of New Zealand and Cook Islanders were among the soldiers killed in combat. We were invited by our newfound host, the health inspector, to attend the church service and ceremony in the village.
Once wives, husbands, girlfriends, boyfriends, kids and babies were organized we all strolled off together to the church where we waited outside the doors until beckoned to enter by the ringing of a bell. The church is some 100 years old and quite lovely inside, with a ceiling of solid mahagony(?) wood, planked and carved, Victorian chandeliers, lace covered pulpit, stained glass, and open windows allowing fresh island breezes through to keep the occupants cool. Once seated, we could hear marching band music start up outside, and a contingent of uniformed flag bearers – men and women in uniform and a gaggle of little kids – made their way across the plaza and into the church where the flags were fastened in place at the altar.
We sat through an hour-long sermon accompanied by a great deal of singing, all in Cook Island dialect except for some words of welcome to us, the visitors, in English. The singing is beautiful – Polynesians must all share enormous vocal talent for so few to make such a lovely chorus.
Another courteous speech by the minister welcoming us as visitors to the village, and eventually Geraldine and I turned in our pretty hats and we all retreated back to Raven for a change of clothes in preparation for the afternoon’s scheduled activity.
More to come!