On Ambrym it is possible to take guided treks to the rim of the volcano craters, but we were forewarned that the trip was 5 hours each way on steep terrain bushwhacking through jungle and wild bamboo forests, crossing strips of slippery lava and climbing upwards through steamy mountain gorges. Eventually the hike opens out onto the vast arid ash plains of the volcanos and the real work begins. Undulating grey ridges are exposed to full sun, the track consisting of a dry slippery crust interspersed with boulders, and finally a narrow razor backed saddle snaking upwards between the two calderas amidst numerous vents puffing out acrid smoke! We decided this was an expedition beyond our capabilities and took a pass. Possibly we need to upgrade our yacht and add an onboard helicopter to our inventory of toys!
And in the wee hours of the following morning Mike and I went topsides to admire the red glow of the twin volcanos lighting up the sky. The guidebooks say the volcanic activity is closely monitored and evacuation plans are at the ready.
We made an early start to cross from Ambrym to Pentecost Island, bypassing a few inviting anchorages including beautiful Waterfall Bay as the wind direction was uncooperative. This turned out to be fortuitous as ultimately we fetched up in the protected and scenic bay of Loltong Village. The approach into the harbor is marked by navigational leading lines and a massive banyan tree. We spent a quiet night in our non-rolly anchorage spying out the resident dugongs in the harbor.
The locals, aware that dugongs can be a tourist attraction, have been trying to think of a way to tame these massive but gentle creatures – but so far have not come up with a successful strategy. Dugongs graze on sea grasses in shallow water and therefore are not subject to bribery by food. One friendly dugong named Bondas was known to inhabit Lamen Bay on Epi Island and allowed swimmers to approach and swim with him, even tickle his belly, but most are shy and quick to avoid humans.
Next morning starting at daylight about 5:30’ish, I kayaked along the shore. Plenty of villagers were up and about at that time of day, so I waved and called out ‘good morning” and snapped photos of giggling children, and thus visited from one end of the town to the other. Near the end a man and wife beckoned me ashore where they served up (on a Christmas plate) a wedge of watermelon for my refreshment. Pentecost is noted for sand drawings, and the wife sketched out an elaborate design in the sand with her forefinger while her husband told me the story (about an unfaithful wife and a jealous husband) that went along with it. Their oldest son lives in Los Angeles with his Mexican wife whom he met on a religious visit to Israel!
When the late sleepers of our group were finally in gear, we all returned to the village and were given a guided tour by the chief’s second son, who also manages the Vat-ulo Yacht Club on the beach. We made arrangements to return for an evening’s entertainment featuring an official presentation of sand drawings and legends (this was attended by the majority of the village children), to be followed by a sunset dinner on the beach. I was allowed to photograph the completed drawings, but not the works in progress, before each was erased with a brush of the hand and the next drawing created. This particular sand drawing represents a catamaran.
Sunset offered up another green flash, but then misting rain drove us inside the yacht club restaurant, a clean, airy and inviting house built of woven mat and thatch and draped inside with floral island sarongs, leis of artificial flowers, country flags from visiting yachts, and Bob Marley posters. By the light of one real candle and a pair of battery operated ones off AVATAR, we were served a wonderful multi course feast of fresh island dishes – tuna salad, yams and taro, mysterious but tasty leaf wrapped cylinders, a chicken stew (my favorite) and a fresh fruit salad for dessert. Each dish was served alone, then withdrawn as the next made its appearance. As the meal progressed our helpings got smaller and smaller as our stomachs got fuller and fuller and we weren’t sure when the parade of dishes would end!
Full of good food and company, we retired for the night with an early departure scheduled next morning for the island of Maewo.
Slideshow of photos below, including some not included in the above blog.
