We have been wandering a bit through the Solomon Islands in search of legitimacy. Our information indicated we would be able to clear into the country (both boat and crew) in the Russells, but when we arrived early in the morning at the small port town of Yandina and asked directions from a passing canoeist, he sadly told us that the customs office in his town was no more; as well as bank and post office, all gone.
We turned down the offer of two triton shells (beautiful but endangered) from a pair of young boys and then we headed off to the next likely port of entry, taking our time to enjoy the journey. A half day’s sail brought us to the spectacular Morovo Lagoon and Uepi Island Resort where we anchored for two nights. We took advantage of the resort’s diving program to make two dives just outside the pass. Both dives involved an immediate descent to 30 meters, stationing ourselves on a point and watching the interaction between the smaller reef fish and pelagic predators. There were thousands of fish in all sizes, colors and shapes schooling in the current at the edge of the precipice…in the blink of an eye all would dart into invisibility, leaving a blue void, to be instantly explained by the appearance of a shark on the prowl or a fast-moving tuna making a run.
The second dive was a drift dive, letting the current of the incoming tide sweep us through the pass back into the lagoon. Joe fought an ongoing battle with the many resident triggerfish who were aggressively defending their nests. They have big strong teeth suitable for munching on coral and are not above taking a good chunk out of a diver! Our final dive ended in the shallows right by the steps of the resort dock where we just climbed to shore and loaded our gear back into our dinghy.
Solomon Islanders are renowned for their carving skills. One of the dive guides asked permission to visit us aboard AVATAR when he got off work, partially from curiosity to see the boat and partially to offer us some of his carvings for sale. Lamae and a friend joined us for drinks on the flying bridge where we shared stories and finally got down to the serious business of trading. We had read that Solomon Islanders don’t bargain per se but when we showed reluctance at the price of a piece we admired, as the visit wound down, he suddenly offered us his ‘second price’, significantly more reasonable than the original asking price. So I am now the proud possessor of a two foot tall sculpture, carved into a hollowed out branch of kerosene wood, adorned with beautifully rendered intertwining sea creatures; salt water crocodiles, octopus, squid and turtle mingled with assorted fish. And as Lamae paddled away in his canoe we could see him leafing through and counting his fistful of US dollars.
From Uepi we moved on to Noro, our second option for clearing in. This was a busy port, filled with fishing ships and a large tuna cannery, and we had more luck here. Not only with clearance, but also finally getting ourselves some Solmon dollars from the ATM, cellphone and data cards, and a few provisions. The customs official did tell Rod that clearance stations were on the decline here…the only other remaining station is in Honiara on Guadalcanal, the capital city. For 2012 we are only the fifth yacht to clear in to the country…obviously not a tourist hot spot as yet, and still dampened by the after effects of a coup that took place in 2000.
From the busy harbor we sailed through a labyrinth of winding waterways and islands, through the Diamond Narrows (a very narrow but deep channel used by the US in WWII as a shortcut for warships), to a much more peaceful lagoon where we anchored overnight, legal immigrants at last!
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