The one big dampening factor for cruising in the Solomons is the man-eating salt water crocodiles (not kidding!) that live in the mangrove swamps, especially at the estuaries where the big rivers empty into the lagoons. Needless to say, I have given up mangrove-kayaking for the duration. Rod had been pooh-poohing their existence in any great numbers here in the belief they had been hunted to near extinction, but the traders who showed up by canoe with four skulls for sale (killed by spear last month on a croc hunting expedition) changed his mind. The government in power after the 2000 coup banned gun ownership for the general population so, except for the spear technique, the only way to get rid of the predators is to report them to the local police who contact the government who sends in a professional crocodile hunter with gun. The locals get to keep the meet, the croc hunter gets to keep the skin, and the villagers get to keep their children!

From Munda we moved to a protected little bay on the far side of Rendova Island. AVATAR was anchored uncomfortably close to a small river mouth but, with houses on either side within a hundred yards, I guessed the area might be crocodile-free. The usual welcoming committee of several local men in a small boat showed up astern shortly after our arrival so we asked them about any resident crocs. Oh, yes, there were several both small and big. At night they swim in the bay hunting but we were not to be concerned. They were good crocodiles, kastom crocodiles, and the villagers here are able to speak with them and ensure our safety.

A more practical approach by western standards was related to me by Trevor John in Nono Lagoon whom I met kayaking early one morning. He explained the logistics of surviving a crocodile attack such as the one that occurred a month or so ago at Seghe Point. A local man there was night diving for mollusks (night diving has definitely been scratched from our to-do list of activities here!) when a croc grabbed him by the head. This man was big and strong and possessed of a large head; he managed to pry open the jaws and escape. Fortunately he was swimming right offshore of the local clinic where he was temporarily patched up and then airlifted to Honiara. He nearly died of his wounds and blood loss but did survive. Trevor John explained for my edification that when a croc attacks in salt water it only intends to capture its prey, get a good grip and then drag the victim to shore where it will then finish the job. The proper frame of mind if grabbed is to keep this fact in mind and, rather than giving up under the assumption you are already dead, put up a good fight.

Speaking of Seghe, Mike and I were snorkeling there just a few days ago, happily unaware of the above crocodile that escaped and was not hunted down after the attack! There is a windsock marking a grass runway built by Seabees in only ten days during the war. A sunken crashed P38 Lightning, a twin engine twin tailed WWII fighter plane, is pancaked on the bottom in relatively shallow water, still intact 70 years later with a bent prop tip the most visible damage.