When we left Puerto Barillas we only had an 85 mile day hop scheduled to transit from El Salvador to its neighbor Nicaragua. Once clear of the estuary and headed offshore the remainder of the trip was uneventful. We arrived at our next stop, Puesto del Sol, which means sunset in Spanish, just in time to enjoy the actual setting of the sun.

From what Rod had been told and read in cruising guides, this is the only marina worth visiting the length of the Nicaraguan coast and it definitely offered all the amenities – from well lit channel markers to guide us safely in, to fast internet (always a plus), a good restaurant, walking trails, an expansive west facing beach perfect for sunset viewing, and the added perk of an assortment of photogenic birds right next to the marina docks.

On our layover day we hired a minivan with driver for one of our rare inland forays, electing to visit the historic colonial city of León. It was an hour and a half drive each way, along one of those demanding two lane highways that requires a certain skill set to negotiate. The road itself was fine as it wound through farmland and local towns. The challenge was to navigate the nonstop parade of vehicles that shared the pavement – heavy trucks, buses, cars, motorcycles, bicycles, horse drawn farm carts, and bicycle-powered taxi carts – and along the shoulder families with small children, market stalls, horses and cattle tied out to graze, plus random dogs, goats, pigs, and chickens running loose. None seemed especially motivated to give way. Venturing into the oncoming traffic lane in order to pass slower traffic is a nail-biter for gringoes. Luckily our driver, Luis, was unfazed and delivered us safely to the city center where he parked and waited while we explored for a few hours, before returning safely back to the marina.

The original León was founded In 1524 by the Spanish, but after a series of natural disasters the city was relocated to its present site in 1610. As it was the capitol city during colonial days and the religious center of the entire region, León abounds with beautiful old churches and buildings. The city is vibrant and colorful, although a bit worn around the edges at 400+ years of age, with a reputation for lively intellectualism and revolutionary fervor.

With so many choices and so little time, we elected to tour the Basílica Catedral de la Asunción. Construction on this incredible cathedral was started in 1747 and lasted for more than 100 years, labor provided primarily by the indigenous natives. Originally the plans submitted to the powers to be in Peru were modest in scope, but once approval was granted León’s city leaders and the architect pulled a bait-and-switch to create this extravagant Spanish baroque styled beauty instead.

The cathedral is the largest in all Central America with a footprint that takes up an entire city block. The interior inspires with lofty vaulted ceilings and masterpieces of Spanish American art, but we were particularly intrigued by the promise of a rooftop tour. We skirted the cathedral’s perimeter, quizzing local taxi drivers, until we found the small entry door that took us upwards via narrow stone stairwells until we emerged in the bell tower with an expansive view of the city and countryside beyond, spiked by more than a dozen volcanoes.

From the bell tower we were allowed to remove our shoes and walk out on the smoothly plastered roof itself. Domed turrets marched from end to end, counterparts to the interior ceiling vaults. The entire vast expanse was freshly whitewashed and blindingly white in the glare of reflected midday sun. By the time we finished exploring my face was red and dripping with sweat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fortunately Rod had already scouted a location for lunch on the recommendation of another American boater in the marina. From the cathedral we walked a few blocks to Hotel El Convento, an actual convent in former centuries, welcoming with lush gardens, soothing shade, and a collection of fabulous Spanish Colonial furnishings. It was the perfect spot to cool down from our rooftop exertions. The food was good, too!

We made it back to AVATAR in time to pack ingredients for a portable Happy Hour, and carried them to the beach to take in the setting sun for the last time at Puesto del Sol. Then to bed, with the alarm clocks set for a predawn departure en route to the next country on our route, Costa Rica.

Click on any photo below to play a slideshow of the above photos and more.